By J. Matthew Nespoli

Just two weeks ago, I went to Peru, on business, and decided to stay four extra days to go see one of the Seven Wonders of the World, Machu Piccu.  It was amazing, one of the most beautiful and amazing things I’ve ever laid my eyes on. However, this blog is not about that. Upon our return to the small transient town of Aguas Calientes, we learned that the railroad tracks had been wiped out by flooding and landslides. We ended up stuck there for almost a week. In that week some appalling things happened. I am most disturbed by the lack of humanity that I found in that town, as well as the corruption from the government, and the cover-up they presented to the rest of the world. We were in a town with 2,000 tourists and 2,000 townspeople. Twenty-one died. What follows are some emails that I sent to my family, while trapped there. I share this because I want the truth to get out. This entire experience has soured me a bit on humanity. I’ve always expected people would take care of each other in a situation like this. I was wrong. It has also enforced my belief that the news we get is largely bull-crap. The news coming out of Peru was anything but the truth. I start from Day two, halfway through the day. At this point no shipments of supplies had come in for three days. This is a town that survives based on daily shipments of goods.  I’ve started the emails with day 3.

Day three:

There is no telling when the email will cut out again, so I will make this fast.

Phones are down, bank machines are down, the town is running out of food, water is low, some people, who have no money, also have no food and water unless other travelers give it to them. The local businesses are not helping; they are price gouging, elevating prices by four and five times normal costs. I feel that people are getting close to rioting, the train will not be repaired until probably May; there is too much damage.  These people have no humanity. One guy wanted to charge me triple for bread and water. I physically resisted him and took many loaves and water so that myself and my group have enough to eat for at least two days would it come to that. I also handed out some stuff to people at the train stations. They aren’t letting people in and out of there and they have no food from my understanding. Some choppers landed, but they didn’t take anyone out, they simply refilled the cash machines and dropped off some military personal armed with AK-47s.  They announced that they are flying in more military and will start evacuating people, hopefully this afternoon.

We just had a meeting, the Americans.  Apparently, there are people trapped on the trails, where we were about three days ago.  That is bad, so they are the priority.  Now, we’ve talked to the Norwegian, German, French, and Canadian embassies, because those are the people with us.  They are all being told that the Peruvian government has been sending choppers.  This is a lie.  So far, no choppers

Wow, the entire town just ran up the hill screaming! Don’t know what happened. Have to go check.  Bye!

Day four:
Our situation seems to be improving, but it is amazing how they are handling this and it could get worse.  Today, it didn’t rain for half the day.  The skies cleared and they brought in choppers.  They took out some people. However, they didn’t take out the sick and wounded, instead, they took out people who were willing to pay the mayor a bribe. I talked to two people, a Belgian and a French guy, who witnessed this. Sickening. 80 year old men and sick people are still waiting in line, while they are flying out the rich. Reports around town say 15 have died in the landslides. Houses literally fell into the river.  They flew in more money for the ATM´s, they’ve done that almost everyday. It feels like they are keeping us here, prisoner, until we are all out of money. Our hostel raised the prices on us everyday, and if they find someone who will pay more, they will take it, and the previous tenant loses his spot. This morning, I got in an altercation with the owner of my hostel. I didn’t pay him anything. I refused. I had to physically push him off me, and I’m pretty sure I’ve scared him from messing with me again. They’ve really taken advantage of some people who’ve let them. There are 300 people sleeping at the train station, with no blankets, and another 400 in the town square building.  And get this, they flew in some food, but not to give to us, they flew it in to the restaurants, so that we can all go to the ATM and get money to buy the food. They also flew in more military with AK 47s.  They are marching up and down the streets to keep order.

Oh, we’ve also been told that there is a fuel problem in Cusco, which is part of the reason they are having trouble getting people out.  Apparently, there was flooding there too. Flights have been cancelled, and when I do finally get out of here (if ever- that’s how it’s starting to feel), I imagine I will be stuck in Cusco forever trying to get out.

Day four, evening:
It has started raining again.  They could fly us out, but I’m guessing they wont, I don’t think this cheap government will spend the money. The Americans were coming, but get this, the Peruvian government closed the air-space to them. Told them that they had it all under control and didn’t need help.  In the Peruvian newspaper it stated that they have flown in food and water and have been giving it out, and that 700 people have been rescued and the rest will be tomorrow.  All of that is lies.  I can’t believe it!  Only 160 people have been rescued so far, mostly the rich, some sick, and no food or water has been passed out so far.  An announcement at the train station was made that it could be from 3 days to two weeks, until we get out of here. That seems like a ridiculously vague window. Some people are still hopeful we will get out tomorrow.  We heard that one group tried to hike out of here. Its 28 kilometers to the next town. We’re considering doing the same, but first we want confirmation that they made it.

Day five, morning:

We heard that four people hiking out died. We will not try this now. Also, two people fell from Machu Piccu and died, Argentinean backpackers. Terrible. People are starting to get food poisoning, myself included. I think they are now selling expired goods. The town is out of toilet paper, so I’ve been using socks to clean myself. Yes, gross, but whatever. I throw them out the window after use. I hope I hit some local in the face with it. That would make me feel good.

Today, at the train station, more choppers came in. People there report that there were riots about who was getting on. I didn’t see this. For the most part, this entire situation has felt like us versus them.  Us being the backpackers, them being the locals and the government. Most people are trying to keep some sense of humor about this, but tensions are getting high, and if they don’t start handing out food and water, there will be riots. I talked to a Belgium guy today who has been sleeping in the cold and hasn’t had anything to eat or drink in two days. I gave him, and some people he was staying with, some water and dry goods. However, I’m getting low on cash now too, and I have zero faith that they will start handing stuff out. Whenever I see the opportunity, I steal from these places. They deserve it if you ask me. Horrible people. If this happened in America, I believe that the local businesses would be helping. At the very least they would not be profiteering like these people.

I heard that 400 people were evacuated yesterday, ages 60 and up. I can’t confirm this, but we did see choppers going for a large portion of the day. We’ve tried organizing and people in the town have started organizing, but it’s all pretty pointless, as the military is running the show, not us, or people in the town. I am still in awe that they flew in AK 47s and cash, but no food and water.

Day 5, night:

I am exhausted and going to bed, I feel so lucky that I’ve got a warm bed. So many are just sleeping out in the cold, including a guy from California that I met. I offered to share my bed, but I think he felt weird about it. This is no time to feel weird. They actually brought in seven tents for people to sleep in, but still no blankets. It rains every night and its f-ing cold.  My group (about 15-20 people), have about 5 total rooms between us all, so we are in good shape.  We’ve also all stocked up on food and water, as we fear a panic. It may or may not come, but we want to be prepared. All it takes is one panic. There already was one earlier in the week. Some people are still paying for goods, others, like me, have had enough, and are taking what we want.

It’s raining again, and the flood line is rising, but it’s lower than it was because it didn’t rain most of the day.  We are so high up that it would take a biblical flood to get us.  Also, any landslides will not affect us. However, it looks like more homes are about to slip into the water in a landslide. There are sandbags being laid down to protect them, but I don’t think it will work. I feel bad for those locals, those aren’t the ones screwing us. I just hope everyone is out of those houses.

Day 6, morning
We heard a news report that this has now been declared a national emergency.  About time.  At one point this week, they asked everyone to move to the stadium, like in New Orleans. However, my group didn’t go, didn’t seem the need. They weren’t passing out supplies, and the stadium is in a place of more danger than we are currently in.  I feel like they mostly just want us all in the same place so that they can keep an eye on us.  From where I sit, I can see people camped out on their roofs. I don’t know if they are stuck there, or if they are just trying to get a more safe view, but their homes are in the mountain and its raining, and it’s only a matter of time until there is another slide. Doesn’t seem smart to me.

One guy I talked to is out of money and asked for water and was denied. I gave him some. I officially hate Peruvians.  What is going on here is profiteering. I will be writing my senator when I return home. The good news is that it seems they are finally cooking some food in the square. I don’t know what it is. Probably rice.   I’m now out of money, but I’m not worried. I have tons of granola and water. I also think there is a chance that I will get out of here today or tomorrow. They seem to be evacuating by age, but that could just be rumor. So far, by my counts, twenty one people have died. Four hikers, two people falling off Machu, and fifteen locals. There are also reports that there are people stuck out on the Inca trail. These people would be stuck with no food, water, or shelter.  I hope they are getting them out. Those people are in the most danger.

Day 6, afternoon:
The mayor has made an announcement that anyone caught profiteering will be prosecuted, so that is good.  The bad news is that he is one of the people profiteering. Fucker.  I don’t feel like the international community is paying attention to us.  One guy, a hiker from New York, shot some footage and is trying to get it to NBC, maybe we will be on the today show or something.

I’m hoping to get out today, but tomorrow is more likely.  Then, I will be in a new town and can get a bus to Cusco, and hopefully a flight to Lima, and then out of here.

I had to shove the guy from our hostel again. He told some girls I’ve met that I’m a scary man and a jerk and don’t know how to treat people with respect. I can’t talk to these people because my Spanish is awful, but I can’t believe that he doesn’t see the irony in this. He has charged some people as much as 140 Soles for their room, when the first day it was 15.

Really miss my wife and kid.  Had a few moments to get on Facebook (it is amazing that email is still working), and it made me cry like a baby. So cute.

Oh, I talked to one guy who tried to send footage out of here. He said that as it was downloading, the power went out. Maybe that is on purpose, or maybe I’m starting to go crazy. I don’t know. I also spoke to another guy who spoke to the embassy and tried to tell them about what the mayor was doing. The American embassy told him he was not telling the truth. Can you believe that?

Day 7: morning:

I think we are getting out of here today. I’m going to the train station.

Day 7: afternoon:

Yeah! We got out! However, there are still many there. We got a chopper through the Sacred Valley (would’ve been cool had I still thought this place was sacred), and then buses in Olligarte to Cusco. Spending the night in Cusco and will try to fly out in the morning. Going to drink my face off tonight.

Day 8: morning:

Flew in to Lima. Didn’t drink last night. Collapsed, in all my clothes, after dinner.  Trying to fly out to Costa Rica, then Los Angeles. All flights are booked, I’ll be on standby.

Day 8: afternoon:

Was just told that all flights are booked for over a week. I could fly stand-by everyday, but that wouldn’t mean I’m getting out of here. Some people, with no financial resources, will have to do exactly that. I sucked it up and bought a new flight. I don’t even want to tell you how much they charged me. It’s the most obscene number of all-time. Even at the airport they are price gouging. I’m just happy to be going home. Will be leaving in 14 hours, and will be home at seven a.m.

This was a learning experience and at least now there is one more thing I know I can survive.

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